Mark Spalding-150x150Editor’s note: Ecotrust does not currently engage in work related to aquaculture, but we recognize that there is valuable dialogue to be held around this topic.  As always, we welcome discussion in the comment section below.

By Mark J. Spalding

Earlier this year, headlines trumpeted the fact that 2013 is the year that more than half the world’s global seafood consumption needs will be met by aquaculture.  This is no surprise—the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization estimates that aquaculture needs to expand by about 10% every year in order to fill demand for fish and other aquatic species—especially since 1 in 7 people rely on them as their primary source of protein.  We reached “peak fish” in wild catch from the ocean in the late 1980’s, and ever since, global food security relied on the expansion of aquaculture.

Food insecurity causes political and social instability, and even environmental instability in the sense that the pursuit of food at any cost promotes short-term thinking and reduces community commitment to a shared vision of a more stable, sustainable future.  Continued population growth places additional stress on wild resources.

The author at Guolian Zhanjiang Group’s shrimp aquaculture facility in China. Courtesy of The Ocean Foundation.

As the human population grows, the stress on the wild population of animals in our ocean increases and the system cannot keep up.  The oceans have suffered from decades of industrial overfishing, loss of habitat to development, destructive fishing gear such as bottom trawls, and changes in ocean chemistry and temperature.  The work to rebuild fish stocks and promote more precautionary thinking in managing wild fish stocks proceeds slowly.  As the UNFAO and the World Fish Centre each predict, it is aquaculture that can and should be expanded to meet the food security needs of a growing population.

Aquaculture has been practiced for thousands of years.  In Asia, fish were often raised in rice paddies and harvested when the rice crops were harvested and the paddies drained.  Other systems co-produced fish and vegetables—the waste from one nourishing the other.  Emerging technology allows us to produce diverse species on land in recirculating systems that can allow for local food security and small scale economic development far from the sea.  To be successful as a support for global food security, the deployment of aquaculture methods, the species grown, and the intended customers must both be sensitive to local resource protection and responsive to local demand.  Different contexts demand different solutions.

For example, in regions where refrigeration is scarce, fish must be grown to a smaller size so that they can be consumed without the need for storage, and at a lower cost.  Such fish operations can also supply institutional needs such as hospitals, schools, prisons, and other entities.

In regions where local wild fisheries are a key source of both economic and food security, outside fishers must be discouraged from adding to the pressure on wild fisheries.   Local communities can be assisted in the design of community-owned fishery management schemes.  To maintain commercial fisheries to supply demand, we need to reduce wild fishing effort, allow fish biomass to recover and maintain total catch at a level that is sustainable.

Two major aquaculture industries are less about supporting food security than filling consumer demand in North America and elsewhere—farmed salmon and farmed shrimp.  Most of the farms that produce these animals are in nearshore open waters or in (former) mangrove forests.  It is Atlantic salmon that can be farmed—and often are—far from their home waters.  Atlantic salmon escapees are now competing with Pacific salmon in the upper Northwest and British Columbia.  In Chile, outbreaks of disease have moved the salmon industry to different places along the coast as areas have become too polluted to support the salmon pen.  Feeding them in their cages requires conversion of millions of tons of small prey fish into fish meal—anchovies from Peru, pogies from the Gulf of Mexico, and menhaden from the Atlantic Coast, among them—in addition to antibiotics,  other drugs, and a special dye to make them pink, as though they had had the same diverse diet as their wild cousins.

We have plenty of terrestrial examples from bison to passenger pigeons that showed we were unable to take “wild-caught” animals to a global commercial scale for consumption without driving them to extinction. For most wild prey species, we stopped hunting them, or domesticated them before they disappeared.

Eating carnivorous fish such as tuna or salmon is like feeding cows to lions so we can eat the lions. First, both the tuna and the salmon have to be fed a large volume of fish products to become a marketable size and flavor for the wealthy country markets where they are sold.  Second, their feed is derived from other wild fish populations such as anchovies, herring, pollock, and menhaden that play a significant role IN the water as prey for larger animals.  Third, the prey fish are a significant source of protein for people in all poor, coastal regions.

Thus, we predict we will move toward eating more herbivorous fish — tilapia, carp, and catfish, among others — via recirculating aquaculture systems because of global population growth and feed conversion ratios.  This prediction is not without debate, and it may be on a long time scale that we see it play out in wealthy nations like the United States, but worldwide it may be unavoidable if we wish to avoid a continued downward trend in biomass in the ocean.

Obviously, we need new technologies and new ideas. The good news is they are emerging and being implemented; now, we need to implement them even faster.

New Trends on the Horizon

New Technologies: Recirculating aquaculture systems combined with hydroponic agriculture forms the new space of aquaponics, which  enables the growing of both plants and fish together in one highly efficient system. Aquaponics can provide controls that allow production with lower contaminant loads, and may be an organic alternative. These are especially beneficial if powered by renewable energy, and are designed to prevent loss of water via evaporation.

Focus on Herbivores: Successful herbivore aquaculture could take pressure off the use of wild animals to feed humans or other animals destined for human consumption. Also, farming is an alternative way to produce marine species for the home and commercial aquarium trade and to reduce pressure on vulnerable reef systems

Better Fishmeal:  When we do farm carnivores, such fish farms increasingly are consuming a significant percentage of the “reduction” wild catch made into fishmeal.  Aquaculture thus plays a role in continuing and increasing demand for wild fish.  However, another trend is in the improvements in feed content modifications to reduce the ratio of protein from meat.

Global Unemployment Problems: Aquaculture can provide viable local jobs requiring a variety of skill sets and education levels; although these jobs are not necessarily alternative livelihoods for local fisher communities who don’t want to work in an industrial setting.

Changes in Market Demand: Sustainable aquaculture can meet and encourage the “locavore” movement, while addressing legitimate concerns that global commercial scale aquaculture is the enemy of sustainability.

Rise of Community-Based, Grassroots, Diverse Constituency:  In the United States for example, many recirculating farms are grassroots oriented; the farms are often run by lower-income and traditionally socially disadvantaged individuals and communities in blighted urban areas and food deserts. These grassroots groups often support high quality standards to prevent new entrants who undercut them on quality and price, which would change the industry from overwhelmingly sustainable to something more like factory farming.

At the end of the day, we know that we now have less than 10 percent of the fish that were in the oceans in the 1950’s, while the world’s population has grown from fewer than 3 billion to more than 7 billion people.  Great management and habitat protection can help rebuild fish stocks globally.  Sensible wild fisheries management strategies can help those coastal communities with few alternatives.  Given the triple threat of population growth, habitat destruction, and changing ocean temperature and chemistry, we have to be ever more cautionary in our approach to taking wild fish out of the sea. Cautious starts to look a lot like deploying these new aquaculture technologies on land, with an eye toward managing energy, water, and transportation demands. That approach will ensure food security, to underpin social and economic security, and to allow the ocean stocks to replenish themselves.

Mark J. Spalding is president of The Ocean Foundation.

 

By Sarah Pope

Lets play the guessing game! If I were to tell you there was a state that had passed legislation establishing a carbon sequestration program granting statutory authority for a state agency to verify carbon sequestration practices over ten years ago, a state that then created an internationally recognized verification system, had over 50,000 acres of state land enrolled in this program that has, to date, sequestered over a million metric tons of carbon by working with producers in a way lauded by both the Natural Resource Conservation Service and the Environmental Protection Agency.  Where would you guess this exciting progress is being made? Surely it has to be a state with progressive leaders focused on the environment, right? California? Washington? Vermont? Maine?

Guess again. It’s Oklahoma, home of the waving wheat, red dirt, and climate change denial of epic proportions; and a state smack-dab in the middle of tornado alley, which will suffer greatly as wild swings in weather become more and more common.

An Oklahoma canola field hard at work sequestering carbon.

An Oklahoma canola field hard at work sequestering carbon.

So how does one go about flying under the radar and winning a battle against climate change “behind enemy lines?” By extending a hand of partnership, taking baby steps, and never letting perfect be the enemy of good.

The Oklahoma Association of Conservation Districts’ ECOpass program is now in its fifth year and we have seen success we never thought possible. In partnership with the Oklahoma Conservation Commission’s Carbon Program, we have been able to provide buyers with verified carbon sequestration practices on over 50,000 acres and have 100 percent of our contracts verified each year. This verification is what allows our program to stand out. Our dedicated staff works to ensure everyone gets a fair shake—from buyers to sellers to the general public.

Oklahoma has a history of stepping up to some pretty big natural resource challenges, looking at them straight on, and getting down to business to correct the problem, while working to protect and enhance those natural resources for future generations. The Dust Bowl, which until recently was considered the worst man-made ecological disaster of all time, is part of Oklahomans’ collective identity; we should know what can happen when natural balance is disturbed.

Dust storm approaching a barn near Boise City, Oklahoma on April 15, 1935.

Dust storm approaching a barn near Boise City, Oklahoma on April 15, 1935.

Unfortunately, it seems as though the current climate crisis is one that few are willing to come to terms with, since the dust isn’t blowing like it did almost one hundred years ago. Whether we fall into outright denial because it’s too difficult to wrap one’s mind around how to change the tide, or fall prey to misinformation created by divisive interest groups, it seems any work to be done in a state like Oklahoma is a futile, uphill battle. But we believe a program like ECOpass is just what is needed to start changing hearts and minds and moving the conversation in the direction of action.

It’s all in the approach

We say this little phrase quite a bit: “You can lead me just about anywhere but I’ll be damned if I’ll be pushed.” Traditionally, Oklahomans are practical people with a love and respect for our land. That respect can be traced to our Native American roots and the cultural values of respecting nature and preserving future generations’ resources. So when we started ECOpass,  we focused on stewardship, and avoided the current negative view of being associated with “climate change” action.

By speaking to those deeply rooted values, we have been able to convince landowners that their work now has a positive impact on many aspects of natural resource preservation. Now, there are those that still deny the danger of climate change. We hear constantly that the climate is merely running through a natural cycle and it will balance itself out. But when farmers see that someone is willing make a financial investment to address something they have been told is not really a problem, it makes those farmers and ranchers take a second look at what they thought was a “great hoax” and reexamine their beliefs.

It’s not an overnight fix, but we are building our case one person at a time. We come to the table with no expectation of drastic, immediate change but instead with the hope that we will change hearts and minds by leading, not pushing.

Sarah PopeSarah Pope is the Programs Director for the Oklahoma Association of Conservation Districts. She has worked for the past five years to bring their carbon program from a few great ideas on paper to a fully functioning, statewide program. In her free time, Sarah likes to play farmer with her real life farm husband and their four children in Loyal, OK. She is a native Oklahoman and firmly believes that we all “…belong to the land and the land we belong to is grand!”

 
Photo by John Valls

Photo by John Valls

Farm to School typically brings to mind fruits and vegetables — a bowl of bright red apples, or a salad bar station. But for Tom and Sue Hunton, owners of Hunton’s Farm and Camas Country Mill, located southwest of Junction City, Farm to School means freshly baked rolls, springy pizza dough, and supple tortillas, all made with their own locally grown and processed grains. This is the second year that the Bend-LaPine School District has sourced flour from the Huntons.

This February, Tom and Sue joined other Oregon farmers, food processors, school district staff, and food security advocates in Salem to voice their support for expanding the Farm to School and School Garden Program. This was one of a series of hearings on Oregon House Bill 2649, which, if passed, would bring $5 million dollars to Oregon school districts to support Farm to School initiatives that help bring healthier, local foods to the lunchroom and provide kids with invaluable food and farm education, both in the classroom and through hands-on experiences.

HB 2649 will compensate school districts around the state up to 15 cents per meal for buying Oregon grown and processed foods. Tom looks forward to expanding their reach within the school food market. The day following their testimony, the Huntons received an order from the Bend-LaPine School District for 12,500 lbs of Hard White Spring Wheat flour and 2,500 lbs of Club Wheat Pastry Flour, which they believe is the single largest order they have ever received. The passage of HB 2649 has the power to seed partnerships that can sustain and grow Oregon agriculture.

The Huntons also offer experiential education to students through farm and mill tours. A sign in their fields designates plots for the school district, and students can visit the wheat as it grows. State funding will allow new opportunities for partners like the Willamette Farm & Food Coalition to develop educational materials and programs that give more depth to students’ hands-on experiences.

Legislators say they love Farm to School programs, but they haven’t committed to funding them, so they need to hear from you! How can you help bring more local foods and garden-based education to schools statewide? Call, email or attend an event this month!

Click here to get more information on how to contact your legislator, and where, and when public budget hearings are taking place!

Learn more about the Huntons and others involved in forging a local grain economy in Edible Portland’s spring article, Grist for the Mill.

Upstream Public Health and Ecotrust are among the nonprofits leading the charge to grow Farm to School and School Garden funding in Oregon. Learn more about Ecotrust’s Farm to School program at www.ecotrust.org/farmtoschool.

 

Stephanie Mutz was on track to becoming a professor. She earned a bachelor’s degree in marine biology from the University of California, Santa Barbara, and a master’s degree in tropical marine biology from James Cook University in Aus­tralia. But while her thesis was being reviewed she took a job as a deckhand and didn’t look back.

Mutz has operated her own boat, primarily dive fishing for urchins and snails, while also trapping fish, rock crab, spiny lobster, and Santa Barbara spot prawns. She now serves as President for Commercial Fishermen of Santa Barbara, a non-profit organization that strives to create new models for collaboration by connecting fishermen with each other and with fishery scientists. CFSB is a member of the Ecotrust-backed Community Fisheries Network, which held its third annual meeting in March.

Stephanie Mutz serves as a go-between for fish harvesters and communities in Santa Barbara.

Stephanie Mutz serves as a go-between for fish harvesters and communities in Santa Barbara. Photo: Fran Collin

CFSB operates by the Golden Rule: only catch what you can sell. They partner with the Santa Barbara Fish Market, which is 200 yards from the pier and will fillet their fish for free.

While Mutz does serve as an adjunct professor of biology for Ventura Community College, her overall educational approach is grassroots. She holds a number of positions on advisory and executive boards, including serving as Co-founder for Santa Barbara’s first and only Community Supported Fishery.

Q. How is CFSB evolving?

A. Fishermen are talking together more, working through issues, and coming up with resolutions. We’re becoming more formal with bylaws and insurance policies. We’d also like to engage more in marketing. But we want to keep our focus at the community level. The largest boat size is 60 feet and we only have two of those; the average boat size is 30 feet. Inventory isn’t always consistent, depending upon the circumstances. We tell restaurants that a good way to think about us is don’t put us on the menu, put us on the chalkboard.

Q. What are the benefits of working with someone in Maine or Alaska, through the Community Fisheries Network?

A. Having a national network like the CFN provides a common ground—it’s a way to hear other people’s stories and issues and see how ours compare. If we’ve dealt with the issue here, we can provide advice to others and vice versa. The network provides strength in numbers and support for common struggles.

Q. What does your outreach to the community look like?

A. A number of CFSB fishermen talk to food clubs, at festivals, and to people who want to know more about harvesting/quirky biology about seafood. My passion has always been teaching, and I’ve realized that I prefer grassroots, organic education. I want to nerd out and tell people all the things they want to learn about.

When I first started outreaching to the community seven or so years ago, I was on my soap box, telling people what they should and shouldn’t do and I realized that I have to relate to people on their level. I’m still learning how to get my message out in language that is accessible to the public and sometimes I need to tone down my approach. I used to teach people how to fillet a fish and boil a crab on Earth Day. Some people had a visceral reaction to me killing food right there on Earth Day!

Q. Is there a good return on investment in outreach?

A. We’re seeing a lot more fishermen getting involved in direct marketing, but it is extra work. I enjoy helping people with strategy; I’d like to be a consultant for fishermen. There’s a communal nature to the industry—consumers like knowing where their food is coming from and fishermen like seeing where their food goes.

 

Julie Mack, Healthy Active Schools Coordinator for the Centennial School District, was looking for fish. She needed enough for a district with a student enrollment of 6, 700 and it had to be caught or processed in Oregon.

Enter FoodHub.

Mack searched the online directory FoodHub, Ecotrust’s network that connects food buyers and sellers. She found Lyf Gildersleeve of Flying Fish Company. Gildersleeve fishmongers from a 176 square foot shack on Southeast Hawthorne in Portland. He set Mack up with an order of cod filet from Astoria.

Mack is using a $29,033 grant from the state Department of Education to bring more local foods into school cafeterias to expand food choices and help support local food producers. She presents new, locally-based dishes to the district on Wednesdays through the middle of May. That cod from Astoria featured once last month and will return to the plates again on April 22.

Centennial is one of 11 Oregon districts receiving a total of $189,000 in grants through a Farm to School bill passed by the 2011 Legislature. Ecotrust research made the case for that bill. Since 2007, Ecotrust has also been active in connecting schools, farmers, and other producers as the Western Regional Lead agency for the National Farm to School Network.

The new grants not only support purchases from farmers but fishermen as well, through what is becoming referred to as “Boat to School.”

FoodHub directly connects schools with local food distributors, like Flying Fish Company. Photo: Lyf Gildersleeve

FoodHub directly connects schools with local food distributors, like Flying Fish Company. Photo: Lyf Gildersleeve

Stacey Sobell, Farm to School Manager for Ecotrust, recently pointed out to OPB’s Ecotrope that grants play a key role in making more local food available to schools, and establishing the connections between all sorts of new producers and large local buyers like schools.

 Sobell said “center of the plate” protein items are a new focus for schools looking to serve local lunch food, and seafood is gaining traction in a handful of schools nationwide.

“This is a big new area that’s really taking off,” she said.

FoodHub and Farm to School are central to Ecotrust’s efforts to build a resilient food system that offers fresh, healthy food to all residents, economically viable food value chains that fairly compensate and respect the dignity of all participants, and methods of food production that renew our resources.

Flying Fish Company is the sort of company that forms the heart of that system.

Recently one of four nominees for Edible Portland’s Local Hero Award in the Retailer category, Flying Fish was first opened by Lyf’s father, Craig Gildersleeve, in 1979 in Sandpoint, Idaho. The family business now has branches in Colorado, Utah, and Oregon.

Flying Fish was recently one of four nominees for Edible Portland's Local Hero Award in the retailer category. Photo: www.flyingfishcompany.com

Flying Fish was recently one of four nominees for Edible Portland’s Local Hero Award in the retailer category.
Photo: www.flyingfishcompany.com

Flying Fish’s mission statement reads, “We would never sell anything we wouldn’t serve at our own dinner table.” They’re the kind of small business that can leverage FoodHub’s marketing and networking tools to find buyers like Centennial.

In addition to selling responsibly harvested seafood, including Oregon Dungeness crab and Oregon albacore tuna, the company also offers grassfed meat, including beef, lamb, pork, elk, and bison. Their specialty products range from hand-churned butter to wasabi. To continue stocking the shelves when seasonal products run dry, Flying Fish is now selling products like smoked salmon, sauerkraut, soup, crab and salmon cakes. Gildersleeve said he’ll be looking to FoodHub to help stock that supply chain as well.

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