Mark Spalding-150x150Editor’s note: Ecotrust does not currently engage in work related to aquaculture, but we recognize that there is valuable dialogue to be held around this topic.  As always, we welcome discussion in the comment section below.

By Mark J. Spalding

Earlier this year, headlines trumpeted the fact that 2013 is the year that more than half the world’s global seafood consumption needs will be met by aquaculture.  This is no surprise—the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization estimates that aquaculture needs to expand by about 10% every year in order to fill demand for fish and other aquatic species—especially since 1 in 7 people rely on them as their primary source of protein.  We reached “peak fish” in wild catch from the ocean in the late 1980’s, and ever since, global food security relied on the expansion of aquaculture.

Food insecurity causes political and social instability, and even environmental instability in the sense that the pursuit of food at any cost promotes short-term thinking and reduces community commitment to a shared vision of a more stable, sustainable future.  Continued population growth places additional stress on wild resources.

The author at Guolian Zhanjiang Group’s shrimp aquaculture facility in China. Courtesy of The Ocean Foundation.

As the human population grows, the stress on the wild population of animals in our ocean increases and the system cannot keep up.  The oceans have suffered from decades of industrial overfishing, loss of habitat to development, destructive fishing gear such as bottom trawls, and changes in ocean chemistry and temperature.  The work to rebuild fish stocks and promote more precautionary thinking in managing wild fish stocks proceeds slowly.  As the UNFAO and the World Fish Centre each predict, it is aquaculture that can and should be expanded to meet the food security needs of a growing population.

Aquaculture has been practiced for thousands of years.  In Asia, fish were often raised in rice paddies and harvested when the rice crops were harvested and the paddies drained.  Other systems co-produced fish and vegetables—the waste from one nourishing the other.  Emerging technology allows us to produce diverse species on land in recirculating systems that can allow for local food security and small scale economic development far from the sea.  To be successful as a support for global food security, the deployment of aquaculture methods, the species grown, and the intended customers must both be sensitive to local resource protection and responsive to local demand.  Different contexts demand different solutions.

For example, in regions where refrigeration is scarce, fish must be grown to a smaller size so that they can be consumed without the need for storage, and at a lower cost.  Such fish operations can also supply institutional needs such as hospitals, schools, prisons, and other entities.

In regions where local wild fisheries are a key source of both economic and food security, outside fishers must be discouraged from adding to the pressure on wild fisheries.   Local communities can be assisted in the design of community-owned fishery management schemes.  To maintain commercial fisheries to supply demand, we need to reduce wild fishing effort, allow fish biomass to recover and maintain total catch at a level that is sustainable.

Two major aquaculture industries are less about supporting food security than filling consumer demand in North America and elsewhere—farmed salmon and farmed shrimp.  Most of the farms that produce these animals are in nearshore open waters or in (former) mangrove forests.  It is Atlantic salmon that can be farmed—and often are—far from their home waters.  Atlantic salmon escapees are now competing with Pacific salmon in the upper Northwest and British Columbia.  In Chile, outbreaks of disease have moved the salmon industry to different places along the coast as areas have become too polluted to support the salmon pen.  Feeding them in their cages requires conversion of millions of tons of small prey fish into fish meal—anchovies from Peru, pogies from the Gulf of Mexico, and menhaden from the Atlantic Coast, among them—in addition to antibiotics,  other drugs, and a special dye to make them pink, as though they had had the same diverse diet as their wild cousins.

We have plenty of terrestrial examples from bison to passenger pigeons that showed we were unable to take “wild-caught” animals to a global commercial scale for consumption without driving them to extinction. For most wild prey species, we stopped hunting them, or domesticated them before they disappeared.

Eating carnivorous fish such as tuna or salmon is like feeding cows to lions so we can eat the lions. First, both the tuna and the salmon have to be fed a large volume of fish products to become a marketable size and flavor for the wealthy country markets where they are sold.  Second, their feed is derived from other wild fish populations such as anchovies, herring, pollock, and menhaden that play a significant role IN the water as prey for larger animals.  Third, the prey fish are a significant source of protein for people in all poor, coastal regions.

Thus, we predict we will move toward eating more herbivorous fish — tilapia, carp, and catfish, among others — via recirculating aquaculture systems because of global population growth and feed conversion ratios.  This prediction is not without debate, and it may be on a long time scale that we see it play out in wealthy nations like the United States, but worldwide it may be unavoidable if we wish to avoid a continued downward trend in biomass in the ocean.

Obviously, we need new technologies and new ideas. The good news is they are emerging and being implemented; now, we need to implement them even faster.

New Trends on the Horizon

New Technologies: Recirculating aquaculture systems combined with hydroponic agriculture forms the new space of aquaponics, which  enables the growing of both plants and fish together in one highly efficient system. Aquaponics can provide controls that allow production with lower contaminant loads, and may be an organic alternative. These are especially beneficial if powered by renewable energy, and are designed to prevent loss of water via evaporation.

Focus on Herbivores: Successful herbivore aquaculture could take pressure off the use of wild animals to feed humans or other animals destined for human consumption. Also, farming is an alternative way to produce marine species for the home and commercial aquarium trade and to reduce pressure on vulnerable reef systems

Better Fishmeal:  When we do farm carnivores, such fish farms increasingly are consuming a significant percentage of the “reduction” wild catch made into fishmeal.  Aquaculture thus plays a role in continuing and increasing demand for wild fish.  However, another trend is in the improvements in feed content modifications to reduce the ratio of protein from meat.

Global Unemployment Problems: Aquaculture can provide viable local jobs requiring a variety of skill sets and education levels; although these jobs are not necessarily alternative livelihoods for local fisher communities who don’t want to work in an industrial setting.

Changes in Market Demand: Sustainable aquaculture can meet and encourage the “locavore” movement, while addressing legitimate concerns that global commercial scale aquaculture is the enemy of sustainability.

Rise of Community-Based, Grassroots, Diverse Constituency:  In the United States for example, many recirculating farms are grassroots oriented; the farms are often run by lower-income and traditionally socially disadvantaged individuals and communities in blighted urban areas and food deserts. These grassroots groups often support high quality standards to prevent new entrants who undercut them on quality and price, which would change the industry from overwhelmingly sustainable to something more like factory farming.

At the end of the day, we know that we now have less than 10 percent of the fish that were in the oceans in the 1950’s, while the world’s population has grown from fewer than 3 billion to more than 7 billion people.  Great management and habitat protection can help rebuild fish stocks globally.  Sensible wild fisheries management strategies can help those coastal communities with few alternatives.  Given the triple threat of population growth, habitat destruction, and changing ocean temperature and chemistry, we have to be ever more cautionary in our approach to taking wild fish out of the sea. Cautious starts to look a lot like deploying these new aquaculture technologies on land, with an eye toward managing energy, water, and transportation demands. That approach will ensure food security, to underpin social and economic security, and to allow the ocean stocks to replenish themselves.

Mark J. Spalding is president of The Ocean Foundation.

 

As the seafood industry faces a wave of new questions about the legitimacy of fish labels, the Ecotrust-backed Community Fisheries Network is buckling down and working to build back public trust by establishing rigorous accountability on sustainability standards for its 13 membership organizations nationwide.

At a recent annual meeting in Portland, Maine, a new work group set to drafting metrics to more clearly measure member performance in meeting the network’s detailed sustainability standards. The standards support three broad goals: improving or sustaining ecosystem and species health; ensuring that communities have equitable access to fishery resources and provide intergenerational opportunities; and improving the economic performance of local fisheries businesses and associated community infrastructure. The standards include an emphasis on traceability for the high-value seafood delivered by network members.

Port Orford by Scott Trimble 2

Community Fisheries Network members are pushing for new metrics for to track progress on sustainability and traceability. Photo by Scott Trimble.

“Our members have understood the problems with labels and traceability for years,” says Stephanie Webb, the business manager for the Community Fisheries Network, who is based at Ecotrust. “False labeling breaks down the trust and relationship between consumers and fishermen. Our work group is concerned with establishing clear metrics that the public can understand, and working on a framework to establish a clear chain of custody from boat to plate.”

Several member organizations sell their fish under their own labels to distinguish themselves in the marketplace and provide traceability back to fishermen. Port Clyde (Maine) Fresh Catch established the first community-supported seafood subscription service in the country and now processes and wholesales its own fish and shellfish. The Alaska Longline Fishermen’s Association sells longlined and troll-caught salmon to community-supported fish subscribers in Juneau and Sitka under the “Alaskans Own” label. In Maine, Calendar Island Lobster Company was established by lobstermen in Maine’s Casco Bay to add story and value to their product. Meanwhile, members in Port Orford, Oregon will deliver fish to subscribers under the Port Orford Sustainable Seafood label beginning this spring.

The focus on transparent labeling becomes even more important as several studies and investigations have found widespread fraud with fish labels. In the most widely publicized study, Oceana found that one-third of more than 1,200 seafood samples collected across the country were sold under false labels. Fish sold under common labels like “tuna” and “red snapper” were in fact other species from poorly managed or unhealthy fisheries. Salmon sold as “wild” were in fact farmed; Asian catfish was often sold under the label of “cod” or “grouper.”

“The Community Fisheries Network believes that its new metrics will improve traceability, provide a real foundation upon which to ‘walk the talk’ on sustainable fisheries, and help consumers understand they are supporting fishing communities that care about the ocean,” says Ed Backus, Ecotrust’s vice president for fisheries.

 

Dark and damp. These iconic qualities make the Pacific Northwest a perfect home for a teeming wealth of fungi and a rich community of mushroom experts. Both often exist just out of sight, despite contributing to our region’s liveliness, culture and economy. Oregon Mushroom Stories, a project of Ecotrust and Edible Portland, brings the surreal, fantastical beauty of mushrooms, and the knowledge held by their many fans, out of the dark to a broad audience. Join Oregon Mushroom Stories and the Portland Institute for Contemporary Art (PICA) for a weekend of mycological happenings at the crossroads of nature and culture, science and art, food and fungi.

HOW MUSHROOMS GROW, AN INTERACTIVE INSTALLATION
When: On view December 2, 12–10pm; December 3, 12–8pm
Where: The Cleaners at The Ace Hotel Portland, 403 SW 10th Ave,
Portland, OR 97205
Online: http://oregonmushroomstories.org/2012/10/30/the-mush-fair/
FREE, All Ages
Artist collective Belly & Bones (Stef Choi & Tony Candelaria) is creating an interactive zoetrope sculpture that presents a fungi life cycle, from mycelia to mushroom. This larger-than-life zoetrope (six feet in diameter!) presents a sequence of sculptures that sprout into mushrooms right before your eyes.

MUSHROOM FAIR
When: December 2, 2–6pm
Where: The Cleaners at The Ace Hotel Portland, 403 SW 10th Ave,
Portland, OR 97205
Online: http://oregonmushroomstories.org/2012/10/30/the-mush-fair/
FREE, All Ages
Alongside the mycelium zoetrope, we’ll host an afternoon fair where you can view the sculpture; shop for mushroom growing kits, wild and cultivated mushrooms, and gifts; view video portraits of regional mushroom foragers and farmers; make spore prints; and even taste a few mushroom, mold, and yeast treats. Come down and learn all about our region’s fungi.

TALK: WEBS OF SYMBIOSIS

Seeing the forest beyond the trees
Monday, Dec. 3, 12 – 12:45 pm

Professor Dan Luoma of the Department of Forest Ecosystems and Society at Oregon State University will discuss the interrelationships among fungi, plants and animals in our forests. Expand your understanding of the central role that fungi play in the dynamic life of a forest.

ARTIST TALK: BELLY & BONES

The making of the zoetrope
Monday, Dec. 3, 6 – 6:45 pm

Then join us for a special presentation by the artists behind the incredible mushroom life cycle zoetrope, Tony Candelaria and Stef Choi of BELLY & BONES.

Featuring:
McMigas Family Farm
Oregon Mycological Society
Springwater Farm & The Farmer’s Feast
makelike
Organic Valley
Ken’s Artisan Bread
Salt & Straw
And more!

MUSHROOM, MOLD & YEAST FEAST
When: November 29, 2012, 7:30pm
Where: PICA, 415 SW 10th Ave, Suite 300, Portland, OR 97205
Online: http://oregonmushroomstories.org/2012/10/30/nov-29-mushroom-mold-yeast-feast/
Tickets: $84, includes wine pairings, 21+ only
SOLD OUT
Mushrooms are a gateway to a whole family of culinary fungi, from molds to yeasts. These remarkable organisms are among the most powerful flavor creators at the backbone of ancient cuisines. In an intimate dinner prepared by Naoko Tamura of Chef Naoko Bento Café, you’ll explore and savor wild and cultivated mushrooms prepared with traditional Japanese ingredients that gain their flavors through processes using molds, including miso, sake, shoyu, katsuo-bushi, salt koji, and more. This dinner is a unique opportunity to learn from mushroom foragers and farmers, fermenters, and wine makers. Featuring wine pairings from R. Stuart & Co. Winery and a special candy cap mushroom ice cream from Salt & Straw.

 

To celebrate Farm to School Month, dozens of Oregon legislators headed to school cafeterias this October to check out what’s new on the menu.

Why did these legislator lunches take place? Statewide funding and legislation is key to growing Farm to School efforts in Oregon. House Bill 2800, passed in 2011, provides just under $200,000 in statewide funding to bring more Oregon-grown and processed foods into school lunches and support food, agriculture, and garden-based educational activities. Starting last week, school districts have the opportunity to apply for this funding to expand their Farm to School efforts.

Congressman Kurt Schrader (D, District 5) and Representative Brian Clem (D-Salem, District 21) eat a fruit- and vegetable-filled lunch with students after touring the Salem-Keizer Education Foundation’s (SKEF) Learning Gardens at Grant Community School.

Although the $200,000 will be awarded to just a few Oregon districts as part of a pilot program, Ecotrust research shows that every dollar spent on Oregon-grown and -processed foods has a significant multiplier effect on Oregon’s farming and processing industries.

In 2013, a growing group of Farm to School advocates will return to the legislature to ask for an expanded $5 million Farm to School grant program. These advocates, co-led by Ecotrust and Upstream Public Health, invited legislators to lunch to showcase the real impacts that Farm to School and school garden programming have for hungry kids and hard-working farmers in their communities.

Healthy school lunch gives young Oregonians – including the large number who experience food insecurity – a daily, balanced meal. Garden-based education helps increase children’s food literacy and teaches life-long healthy eating habits. Farm to School supports regional food economies and creates new markets for Oregon farmers.

Ecotrust helped organize three lunches: at Cascade Elementary in the Lebanon Community School District, Centennial Learning Center (CLC) in the Centennial School District, and Grant Community School in the Salem-Keizer School District. Increased funding from the state will allow schools like Cascade, CLC and Grant to sustain and expand their innovative programming and allow more schools across Oregon to develop successful programs.

Legislators get a taste of how school lunch is changing
On Food Day, October, 24, Representative Sherrie Sprenger (R-Scio, House District 17) toured Cascades Elementary. Student guides gave a tour of the district’s Planting Seeds of Change edible teaching and production gardens, which produced 800 pounds of food for the school meal program and a local hospital last year! (Learn more about the visit in this Democrat Herald story.)

On October 26, Senator Laurie Monnes Anderson (D–Gresham, District 25) and Representative Greg Matthews (D-Gresham, District 50) visited Centennial Learning Center. They experienced their innovative lunch program, which incorporates farm fresh produce. In August 2012, the district began incorporating a weekly share of vegetables from Dancing Roots Farm into its school lunches. All students learn to cook in the culinary program, which prepares breakfast and lunch daily for the school. Centennial Learning Center was also the first school in Gresham to pilot composting food scraps.

Senator Laurie Monnes Anderson (D–Gresham, District 25) and farmer Brian Dickerson of Dancing Roots Farm listen as Conrad Schumacher, Centennial Learning Center chef and teacher, describes the lunch they are about to eat, prepared by CLC students using vegetables from Dancing Roots.

Rep. Greg Matthews (D-Gresham, District 50) points out what’s on the menu for lunch at the Centennial Learning Center, highlighting vegetables from Dancing Roots Farm. He is flanked by the Oregon Department of Education’s new Farm to School Coordinator Rick Sherman, FoodCorps fellow Emily Ritchie, principal Jamie Juenemann, and the Oregon Department of Agriculture’s Farm to School Specialist, Michelle Ratcliffe.

On Halloween, October 31, Congressman Kurt Schrader (D, District 5), Representative Vicki Berger (R-Salem, District 20), and Representative Brian Clem (D-Salem, District 21) ate school lunch at Grant Community School. They joined Food Service Director Dave Harvey; representatives from the Salem-Keizer Education Foundation, Kaiser Permanente, and Ecotrust; and elementary students to tour the school garden, learn about the school’s composting program, participate in an apple taste test, and experience how the district is changing what students eat and how cafeterias source food. (Learn more about the visit in this Statesman Journal story and this Capital Press story.)

A raised bed in the Salem-Keizer Education Foundation’s Learning Gardens at Grant Community School overflows with abundant fall produce. Students at Grant report that kale is one of their favorite vegetables (!) – they turn it into tasty kale chips with School Garden Coordinator Brenda Knobloch.

FoodCorps service member Chelsea Thomsen and Salem-Keizer Education Foundation School Garden Coordinator Brenda Knobloch serve tastes of several varieties of Oregon apples to students in the cafeteria at Grant Community School.

From left: Representative Brian Clem (D-Salem, District 21), Representative Vicki Berger (R-Salem, District 20) and Congressman Kurt Schrader (D, District 5) check out the composting setup in the cafeteria at Grant Community School in the Salem-Keizer School District.

Photos by Stacey Sobell.

 

La Esperanza farmer Araceli Roman and her daughters at the Forest Grove Farmers Market. Photo by Shawn Linehan.

In 2010, the nonprofit Adelante Mujeres saw a clear challenge when the Latino farmers on its 12-acre La Esperanza Farm in the city of Forest Grove, Ore. continued to struggle selling their abundant harvests. Adelante Mujeres provides courses in sustainable agriculture to low-income Latinos, and offers graduates small farm plots and a booth at the Forest Grove Farmers Market to sell their fresh produce. But daunting social, linguistic, and technological barriers were making it difficult for the La Esperanza farmers to find diverse buyers for their organic vegetables.

Over two years, Portland State University and Ecotrust worked in close partnership with Adelante Mujeres to pilot a program that connects La Esperanza farmers to local wholesale buyers seeking fresh, organic produce. In the process, they took a hard look at how these farmers could support greater community health among the low-income residents of Washington County.

PSU Students Engage Local Residents

The 12 current La Esperanza farmers and 15 Latino vendors at the Forest Grove Farmers Market participated in focus groups led by Portland State University Professor of Sociology Margaret Everett and graduate student Scott Ellis. The conversations drew out the farmers’ priorities and concerns about marketing their products.

“I’ve worked with Latino neighborhoods to improve access to healthy retail options, and I was especially impressed by how motivated and knowledgeable these farmers were,” Professor Everett reflected.

At the top of the list, the farmers wanted to know more about the shopping habits of local residents. They knew that low-income community members, many of whom are Latino, were facing a parallel difficulty: a lack of affordable access to fresh, healthy food in comfortable settings. How and where could Adelante farmers offer their produce to fill that need?

From the focus group findings, undergraduate students in Asst. Professor Betty Izumi’s School of Community Health freshman inquiry course devised a bilingual survey that they sent to 4,000 nearby residents. Nearly 30 percent responded, and three Urban and Regional Planning graduate students mapped the responses using GIS technology to overlay census data.

From their content-rich map, the graduate students identified neighborhood-specific tactics for how to increase awareness of the Forest Grove Farmers Market, evaluated locations and hours for new market stands, and worked with the farmers to make bilingual flyers, a website, and printed recipes.

Ecotrust Introduces Farmers to Schools

Ecotrust shared its relationships within the farm to school community to connect the La Esperanza farmers to nearby preschools and public schools, which serve many vulnerable young people in the community.

Fernando Niño, one of the La Esperanza farmers, is now selling his fresh produce to Cornelius Head Start, an early childhood care center, and has built a relationship with the largely Latino staff. “The opportunity is a good fit for me because I will be providing food for my community,” he said. “A barrier for me is that although I understand English, I don’t speak it well. This is another reason why providing food to Latinos and the institutions that serve them will be a good marketing outlet for me.”

This success has inspired three more Head Start programs in Washington County and two public school districts to establish relationships with the La Esperanza farmers. Adelante Mujeres is also working with Ecotrust’s online tool FoodHub, which connects regional wholesale food buyers and sellers. Currently, Adelante staff host a profile on FoodHub to help La Esperanza’s farmers market their products. Ecotrust’s relationship with Adelante planted the seed to begin exploring ways to make FoodHub work for those who don’t speak English or who lack computer access or literacy.

Este es un programa de aprendizaje. Nosotros estamos en el camino, aprendiendo… sí ya tenemos la satisfacción de estar proveyendo comida orgánica, fresca y cultivada localmente, tanto para nuestros clientes como para nuestras familias.”

“This is a learning program. We are on the road, learning… We have the satisfaction of providing organic food, fresh and locally grown, to our clients and our families.”

- Alfredo Sanchez, La Esperanza Farm

Partners Deepen Their Commitment to Food Justice

Adelante Mujeres is beginning a partnership with Oregon Childhood Development Coalition, one of the largest early childhood care and education networks in Oregon, serving over 3,000 children and their families every year. The farmers are also in discussion with other wholesale buyers to establish lasting partnerships.

PSU Asst. Professor Izumi is using this project as a model for how and why to engage undergraduates in community-based studies. Working with the La Esperanza farmers also gave the graduate students’ GIS work valuable, applicable context, which Ellis is citing in an article to rebuff GIS programs that don’t involve community participation.

Ecotrust is continuing its work to connect low-income minority farmers with schools. It recently began a two-year project to facilitate new connections between 36 lower-income school districts and small- to mid-size and minority-owned food producers in Oregon and Washington. All three partners learned that schools and preschools are some of the most equitable places to bring healthy food into the community.

“Despite Latinos’ critical role in Oregon’s food system, there are many children of farmworkers who never get a chance to eat the food that their parents work so hard to harvest,” reflects Stacey Sobell, Farm to School Manager at Ecotrust.

“It’s hard to think of a better fit than having La Esperanza farmers sell their produce to local school districts and Head Starts. In many cases, these organic fruits and vegetables will end up on the plates of the farmers’ own sons and daughters,” says Sobell.

The project partners have witnessed that the wholesale market is an excellent outlet for Latino farmers, giving them a direct line to community members who they might not otherwise access and allowing them to build long-term relationships with buyers that can weather the challenges they face as they learn new skills and maneuver the inevitable ups and downs of farming.

“How do we create healthy communities?” asks Anne Morse, Outreach Coordinator for Adelante. “We are trying to get these folks on the periphery of the local food movement to be more engaged.” She has witnessed that multiple problems can be solved when the solution invests in people and connects them to their local community.

Morse attributes the project’s success to its partners’ collaborative spirit. Each organization brought distinct tools, skills, and relationships that deepened and broadened their collective impact. With greater knowledge and commitment, all three partners are continuing their work to expand food justice for farmers and eaters.

Thank you to the Northwest Health Foundation, United States Department of Agriculture Community Food Project, and the Portland State University School of Community Health and University Studies Program for the funding that made this project possible. This project took place in 2010-2011.

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