By Tim Gibbins

The Skeena River in northwestern British Columbia is a fabled salmon fishery with many fish-processing plants along its banks. But the company running the newest plant in Thornhill, BC, might surprise you.

It’s Patagonia.

Beginning this week the apparel company launches a bold venture into the food business — Patagonia Provisions Wild Salmon Jerky. The jerky is aimed at outdoorsy folks looking for high protein snacks; it also delivers a strong environmental and community story— in keeping with Patagonia’s industry-leading corporate responsibility.

Once abundant salmon runs on the undammed Skeena River and all along the Pacific coast have greatly diminished. But the Patagonia venture seeks to support selective harvest of particularly healthy runs in the upper reaches of the Skeena.

Skeena River

The Skeena River photo by Sam Beebe

 

The company teamed up with SkeenaWild Conservation Trust, to identify in-river harvesting locations for their salmon. And by partnering with the First Nations to source the salmon through traditional fishing methods such as dip nets, fish wheels, and beach seines, Patagonia’s newly created market will help restore an artisanal fishing economy and locally rooted jobs that tap into the watershed’s deep history.

Lake Babine fishermen work the Skeena photo courtesy of Greg Taylor/SkeenaWild

The Lake Babine Nation that lives at the headwaters of the Skeena, has faced long odds since their fishing economy was severely diminished in 1906 when the Canadian government shut down the inland river fishery in favor of the coastal fishery at the mouth of the Skeena River.

Unemployment now hovers near 50% for many First Nation tribes in the region; the 15 jobs created at Thornhill fish processing plant will give a boost, alongside fishing.

Greg Knox, the executive director of Skeena Wild Conservation Trust, told a reporter recently, “Not only are they bringing significant benefits to their communities, but they are showing the world that these fisheries are sustainable and economically viable. Their location and harvesting techniques allow these fisheries to intercept strong runs while allowing smaller, weaker populations to reach their spawning areas. They are some of the most sustainable salmon fisheries in the world.”

So Patagonia’s new fish processing plant may look like other fish processing plants, but the difference, founder Yvon Chouinard says, is that “The product coming out of there is the cleanest, most responsible, best-tasting fish around.”

See more about this venture in this Skeena video.


Tim Gibbins is a writer and Patagonia employee living in Portland, Ore.

 

Ecotrust’s Copper River program in Alaska has been gathering local stories of resilience, as part of ongoing efforts to grow overall knowledge of the watershed. Find out more at the Copper River Knowledge System.

 

 

By Liz Stuart

The annual Salmon Festival, hosted by Columbia River tribes at Celilo Village just east of The Dalles in April, starts with basics — music, succulent food, and dancing. But its roots and meaning run deep: they’re built on 11,000 years of history at this place. And even though Celilo Falls, the cataract where the tribes traditionally gathered to catch and celebrate the return of salmon, was flooded by The Dalles Dam in 1957 and the festival draws on modern conveniences, there’s an age-old intricacy to the happenings here that exudes authenticity and resilience.

Using traditional techniques, women debone salmon to leave the nourishing belly meat. Photo By Jan Sonnenmair

I drive past Celilo Village at least three times a year on my way upriver to visit my family near Spokane. In 2002, when I made the drive down the river on I-84 for the first time, the village hadn’t yet been redeveloped; now, fresh homes surround a sturdy longhouse that hosts ceremonies and gatherings throughout the year, including the Salmon Festival. It’s an unmistakable marker of the tribes’ steady resurgence —even as the interstate stands between the village and the river, and every day, thousands of people fly by, unaware that this location is central to the Columbia River’s indigenous culture.

I got a glimpse of just how deeply the river and its bounty are woven into the people and history of Celilo when I caught up with Bobby Begay, a Yakama tribal member who lives in Celilo Village, as we reviewed photos taken at the festival over the course of two years by Jan Sonnenmair. The photos appear in the spring issue of Edible Portland .

Begay pointed to a photo showing some older men cooking meat on the big grills outside the longhouse — though not traditional, it’s a practical way to feed the large crowd that attends the festival every year. One grill holds salmon, and one holds venison. Begay explained that the fish is cooked on the grills closest to the river, while the venison is cooked on the “inland” grills. The land food, venison, cannot stand between the water food, salmon, and the water it came from. The fish and venison are kept separate, so their spirits don’t fight with each other. Gas grills or not, this division has been observed for generations.

In River of Memory: The Everlasting Columbia , Elizabeth Woody wrote about Celilo following the inundation of the falls: “The spirit of the ‘Place of Echoing Water upon Rocks’ is not silent. We care for the river and the life of traditional unity, the humble dignity, and purity in intention— wholeness. Ultimately, we restore life with our attention and devotion.”

With each detail attended in ceremonies such as the Salmon Festival, the Columbia River people renew age-old skills and traditions and pass them to the next generation.

Liz Stuart is an Ecotrust Food & Farms Education and Outreach intern.

This year’s Celilo salmon festival will occur from April 13 to 15.

 

Ecotrust is inaugurating a Northwest Indigenous Leaders Council, designed to serve as an advisory board on issues ranging from watershed and salmon restoration to fisheries, forestry, economic and cultural issues. Ecotrust will challenge the new council to help the region see the long-term economic value of environmental restoration and strong tribal sovereignty and Native culture. Continue reading »

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